“Hey, New York!” called out my Algarve boat tour operator, pointing across the blue-green water to the clifftop Fortress of Sagres, one of the westernmost points in Europe. “You could leave from there ...

“I work against the sun so I can see the shapes,” he says, pushing his long-poled ‘harvester’ across the shallows of the tidal salt pan, “and scoop up the flecks on the top.” At, Salmarim, a project ...